German Traditions

Being the city where the first organized Carnival processions were held Cologne has the largest and best known of all processions on Rosenmontag. In 1998 1.5 million people went to see it and 9000 revellers took part in the procession itself, among them 4000 musicians and 122 bands. The many members of Cologne's Carnival Societies prepare the costumes, floats, etc long beforehand, and the bands and dancers practise all year long for the big event in February.

Among those taking part in Cologne's very first procession was a regiment of soldiers (in uniform) called "Rote Funken" (Red Sparks) who were to behave as unsoldierly as possible. Up to this day groups of 'soldiers', often in very elaborate costumes, make up a large part of the procession. The most popular soldiers, however, are the female ones, the "Funkemariechen" (Sparking Marys).

During the so called "silly" season Cologne is symbolically ruled by the Dreigestirn. The Dreigestirn are the Prinz (prince), Bauer (peasant) and a male Jungfrau (virgin), a striking blonde with beautiful long tresses and a viking hat. (The prince stands for those in power, the peasant for the city's guilds and craftsmen and the Jungfrau is supposed to be the city's Patroness.) In Düsseldorf the Carnival and its many events are presided over by the elected prince and princess.

True to the idea that everyday life is turned upside down during Carnival, Weiberfastnacht (Women's Carnival) is the day when women rule. In towns along the Rhine, like Cologne, women symbolically storm the town hall and the Lord Mayor is made to hand over the keys as a sign of his submission to the women. On this day a male superior, or in fact any male who tries to exert authority is likely to be simply kissed and offered a sweet, his requests is otherwise completely being ignored. Men, who are not dressed up but wear their usual business attire, run a serious risk of 'losing' their tie as it is customary for women to cut the tie below the knot.

In southern Germany, Carnival is celebrated in a different way. Instead of having huge processions like those in the Rhineland, southern towns and villages have kept their often very local and unique traditions alive. In Mittenwald (Upper Bavaria) for instance Carnival is the time for the Schellenrührer. Schellen here mean cow bells that are attached to the costumes worn by the Schellenrührer. The Schellenrührer parade starts on Thursday at noon when they walk, or rather jump, through the city with a rhythmic step which makes the cow bells ring.

Festivities in the Bavarian capital are nowadays a much more muted affair. Most Carnival celebrations in Munich are fancy dress parties and elegant balls held behind closed doors. Few people (grown ups that is) will be seen wearing a costume in public and the traditional street Carnival as well as the old costumes have disappeared. In other Bavarian cities and rural areas, however, traditions are very much kept alive.

Away from the Carnival centres an ancient Carnival figure, the Fasenickl has survived. He wears a highly expressive wooden mask and a garment that was formerly made of shreds and tatters (one of the cheapest form of disguise). The modern Fasenickl costumes, however, are both very elaborate and colourful.

Although Carnival as such has a long history some traditions are not as old as one might think. The Offenburger Hexen (Witches from Offenburg) are a good example of this. Invented by a couple in the 1930s, the first appearance of the Offenburger Hexen was so bewitching that they soon became a major local attraction. Wearing frightening masks and colourful costumes, large groups of Hexen haunt the city on Weiberfastnacht.

Another innovation is the Bremer Karneval n its current form. With its focus on Latin American music the Bremer Karneval is less concerned with reviving and continuing old traditions than creating new ways of celebrating this old festival. During Carnival Bremen's many Samba and brass bands parade through the city. It is also a major time for street artists like jugglers, fire eaters, etc.

In some places long forgotten Carnival traditions have been revived. The so called Schembart-Lauf of Nuremberg is a case in point. The Schembart-Lauf was a well-known event in the Middle Ages which came to an abrupt end in 1539 when one of the town's dignitaries felt that too much fun was being had at his expense. He used his influence and the festival was abolished. Time and time again local people tried to revive the festival, but their efforts bore little fruit until 1974 when the newly founded Nuremberg Schembart Society succeeded in organizing a festival according to the old traditions. Schembart refers to the handcarved wooden masks (Scheme) worn by the men. These masks usually were decorated with a beard (Bart) hence the name Schembart. The Schembart festival is a very lively affair with Renaissance music, dance groups, etc..

The political aspect of Carnival has not entirely disappeared although there is less need for it now than in the past. Many speakers still poke fun at current politicians and govermental policies. One of the more pronounced if not necessarily the most serious way of criticising current politics is the Narrengericht (Court of Fools) in Stockach. The Court of Fools assembles every year to put a politician on trial. The politician is asked to attend the trial and defend himself. The Court of Fools became famous when well-known politicians like Hans-Dietrich Genscher (Germany's Foreign Minister from 1974-1992) and Franz-Josef Strauß (one of the founders of the CSU party) turned up in Stockach to appear before the Foolish Judges.

The above are just a few of the many Carnival traditions in Germany. In contrast to many other German customs Carnival shows no sign of dying out. If anything, more and more people seem to take part in it every year. Although the regional festivities differ considerably they have one thing in common: once a year normal restrictions and conventions are put on hold. People can dress any way they like, do (almost) anything they like, forget about everyday problems - and just have fun.