Mardi Gras the Uruguayan Way
Mardi Gras is one of our most important celebrations. Throw in the judging and it runs 40 days (and nights). That´s the longest in the world. 
But, it actually runs all year! Because no matter the month, parts of Carnaval open and close other events, jazz up private parties, appear on tv shows, and even tour the world. So yes, Mardi Gras is big in Uruguay. It makes more money than soccer — our national passion!
It All Began — How?
In various ways because our Mardi Gras is a combination of different traditions. First, think of the Egyptians and Old Europeans honoring a god or celebrating a good harvest. Today we still do a lot of what they did.
Second, the Spanish. Folks in Uruguay will tell you that more than a century ago a group of their artists came over — then couldn´t go back. No money! So they popped up in eye-catching costumes putting on street plays. A bit improvised, those plays — but no matter: they were hits anyway! And right there you have the origins of street bands, variety shows, comedy acts, and people good at sending up others (like Jon Stewart on The Daily Show). Today we´re still blocking off streets, putting up platforms, doing sound and lights (okay, that´s rather new), setting out chairs, and waiting excitedly for showtime just like in the 19th Century.
Third, southwest Africa. During colonial times slaves in vivid matching costumes marched, sang and danced in the streets to rhythms produced by three sizes of drum. Afro-Uruguayans still do this during Carnaval in some 40 groups called comparsas, each of about 100 members each.
The Inaugural Parade
Everything starts the last Thursday of January with a huge parade down our main drag, July 18th Avenue. The Mardi Gras queens, thematic floats, effigies with out-sized heads, samba dance schools in the best Brazilian style, and more — it´s all there. The comparsas join in when the parade reaches Montevideo´s South Side. Once the parade is over (viewed by tens of thousands in person and millions on television), Carnaval really takes off: outdoor stage shows launch all the country.
Democracy in Party Mode
Cultural icons, politicians, government ministers, artists (like world-famous painter Carlos Páez Vilaró), and other people who are very serious the rest of the year all go crazy during Carnaval. Young and old can be seen shaking it to the rhythms of drums and cymbals. Everywhere masked and costumed kids are throwing confetti and shooting paper streamers. The joy is shared. We feel like brothers and sisters. Everyday problems are thrown out the window. Maybe words can´t do it — so come and feel it.
Kids Included Bigtime
Mardi Gras of the Promises is the parallel event letting children and adolescents strut their own stuff. With a parade and judged events just like the adult version, many an artistic career has started here. Which is easy to see nowadays with a look at television, theater, and Uruguay´s young film industry.
Passion
Students, employees, professionals, homemakers, you name it, no one escapes the passion. They prepare all year for Carnaval. At the end they´ll rehearse eight hours a day on top of work and study. “It´s hard but gratifying,” says Santiago of the musical group Green Devils. After 12 hours in a butcher´s shop he goes to practice with his musical group Green Devils. “It´s a lot of work but it´s from the heart,” says Monica. She too works all day before managing the cymbals for her dance troupe Asabranca. She handles its public relations as well.
Wherever
Everybody practices where they can. It might be a sports club, or a group member´s or friend´s basement. Even a public square — that´s Asabranca´s case. So Monica and the other dancers rehearse in public for free. Which helps make Mardi Gras what it is: everyone´s.
You´re Invited
So come, join in, and enjoy. Remember that all year is Mardi Gras in Uruguay.
“I remember my childhood, when I was the one who went about costumed, with my little paper purse instead of a rubber streamer. There were long plastic tubes called pomos, and you could fill them with water, and anyone who crossed our paths got wet. I´ve been told that many years ago the tubes conveyed exquisitely perfumed water. I especially would like to thank Monica of the Asabranca troupe and Santiago of the Green Devils group.”
Copyright: Todo Alemán
May 2011
This text is a translation from Spanish.
