Of food and other adventures

Exploring the rich culinary heritage of Old Dhaka

Old Dhaka has always fascinated me. The web of narrow streets, barely wide enough for rickshaws to pass through, the heritage homes standing proudly amongst modern building blocks and the markets where turmeric is sold by the kg, all add to the essence of Old Dhaka. They were the things that made me fall for this world just beyond my doorstep. And of course, there was one more thing. The food. Nothing compares to the huge silver pots filled to the brim with steaming biryani or the refreshing taste of a freshly shaken lassi. With the aid of the Old Dhaka Food Map, I embarked on my most recent expedition, dedicated to uncovering these culinary treasures. Venturing into the age-old eateries that have been serving mouthwatering dishes for centuries, I returned from Old Dhaka with an abundance of impressions and memories.

Entering a new world

As I opened the car door, the scorching heat and the blaring car horns jolted me back to reality. Part of me wanted to retreat into the comfort of my air-conditioned car and return home. However, something had changed since I got in the car an hour ago. Instead of the congested six-lane roads, I now saw colorful rickshaws zooming through narrow streets. Although I traveled a mere 10km between my home in New Dhaka and Old Dhaka, these places could not be more dissimilar in appearance.
​​​​​​​As I came to grips with my new surroundings, I had to think hard about why I had come here. The oppressive heat slowed my thoughts. My growling stomach reminded me that it was the promise of Old Dhaka's culinary heritage and the mouthwatering dishes that drew me here. A merchant rushing past me with sacks filled to the brim with onions and garlic brings me back from fantasizing about a cool drink and a hearty lunch. I am reminded of my privilege to be here for the trivial purpose of trying new food rather than laboring under the beating sun. I make a vow to appreciate my meals and acknowledge the immense effort that goes into producing the ingredients I consume more.

Despite having spent six months in Dhaka, Old Dhaka continues to be shrouded in mystery. There’s an undeniable excitement that comes with trips to the Old Town, rooted in the uncertainty of what awaits. Certain is only that it will be a feast for the senses. Like most, I had been to Old Dhaka to explore some of Bangladesh’s oldest most beautiful buildings and to stroll around the whole sale markets. I had however never been to Old Dhaka just to explore the eateries. Yet that was to change.

Lost with purpose

'The Old Dhaka Food Map was to be my first point of entry into a world of drinks, spices, and mouthwatering dishes. It delves into the tantalizing world of Old Dhaka's cuisine, locating 20 of the best eateries and drink shops.'

© Moritz Kneuer I was rather grateful for having it as choosing amongst the wealth of eateries lining the streets had previously been a lucky dip, which could end in disapointment. After briefly studying the Map, I decided to make Beauty Boarding my first stop, as it is one of the only eateries promising vegetarian items.

Being in no particular rush, I decided to walk to Beauty Boarding, which proved a lot more difficult than anticipated. At least to an outsider, Old Dhaka bears frightening resemblance to a labyrinth. The countless allies, side streets and dead ends couldn't possibly be captured by the Food Map and so I developed a habit for getting lost. My initial frustration at this soon gave into acceptance and even joy. Each wrong turn revealed new Hindu Temples and ancient Mughal buildings to marvel at. Despite the latter’s evident decay, these structures stand as beautiful testaments to bygone eras.

Just as the buildings have their stories to tell about Old Dhaka’s people and history so does the food.


'Here, food is not merely sustenance but a reflection of the region's culture, history, and community values. Old Dhaka's culinary traditions bear the unmistakable marks of the Hindu Kings and Mughal Emperors who ruled from 1095 to 1793.' 

© Moritz Kneuer The opulent lifestyle and refined tastes of the Mughals brought a rich repertoire of spices and cooking techniques. Meanwhile, the Hindu rulers contributed aromatic rice varieties and vegetarian dishes, resulting in a fascinating amalgamation of flavors and aromas.

Everyone is equal before a plate of Biriyani

I might have missed Beauty Boarding entirely if it weren’t for the goodwill of several shopkeepers. Hidden behind a small gate Beauty Boarding was a welcoming sanctuary after a captivating yet taxing journey. While I had been dodging dangerously fast rickshaws, I suddenly found myself in a lush and serene courtyard.

As I indulge in a serving of delicious khichuri with flavorful vegetarian side dishes, I observe a steady coming and going of people from all walks of.


'The irresistible aroma of Biriyani or Polao necessarily permeates all socio-economic and religious barriers, attracting everyone to the same restaurants day in day out. Afterall it is only food that can seduce people into sharing a table with ones they would otherwise not interact with.'

Guided by this sense of community, the Old Dhaka Food Map only features eateries that have contributed to neighborhood’s thriving and sustainability. It pays homage to the small bakarkhani shops on the corner rather than the well-known restaurants that have opened multiple branches across the city.

By the end of my meal, Beauty Boarding had gotten the better of me and I would have gladly stayed for the rest of the day. Yet after unfolding the Food Map, I realized how much I had yet to explore. It would take several visits to try out all the eateries. But for now, a lassi and a sweet shop would have to suffice. The idea of a cold soothing lassi made leaving the tranquility of Beauty Boarding’s courtyard bearable.

© Moritz Kneuer After a few more wrong turns, I arrived just in time to witness a waiter crushing ice for my lassi. This was no small matter as the block of ice resembled a shoe box whereas the ice in my lassi dissolved like flaky sea salt on my tongue. Sitting in the back of the lassi shop, relishing the perfect blend of yogurt, ice, and spices, a sense of weariness and calm settled over me. Although I had only spent a couple of hours in Old Dhaka, the moment I had left the climatized car seemed days ago. But there was an urge to move on, to continue exploring Old Dhaka.

Lost in my thoughts, I find myself wandering the streets once again. The sweet shop of my dreams revealed itself with shelves lined with syrup-soaked jilapi and decadent roshogolla. The unparalleled range of sweets bare testament to the openness and hospitality of the people who call Old Dhaka their home. A carton brimming with various sweets is the least one can offer when invited into somebody’s home. And believe me one gets invited often. Very often. With a selection of my favorite sweets in hand, I decide it's time to head home.
 

Coming home

Much of the day feels like a blur and it may take a while until I remember all the details. The heat and the noise played their part in making the day’s events melt into each other. Yet more significant were the wealth of impressions, experiences, and food. I look forward to remembering and reliving my hours spent in Old Dhaka in the days to come. There remain countless eateries and places to be explored. It will take an inclusive effort by anybody interested in good food and culture to further an awareness and appreciation of the rich tapestry of flavors that Old Dhaka offers.


Author


© Moritz Kneuer
Moritz has just completed his bachelor in International Relations and is now doing an internship in Bangladesh. His passion for food and new encounters has led him to Old Dhaka many times. Trips to this unique world have been introductions to new cultures and lifestyles. Through his writing Moritz wishes to capture some of Old Dhaka’s essence and make it accessible to those who have never visited.