Detours | The Swabian Alps and the Schönberg Tower  White Landmark in Ancient Landscape

Formed by a tropical sea, volcanic activity and meteorite impact, the Swabian Alps today are one of southern Germany’s most diverse landscapes. One outstanding feature is the Schönberg Tower.

Once upon a time, an unimaginably long time ago, there was a shallow tropical sea. It covered large parts of what is now Europe and was home to creatures we are only familiar with from myths and fairy tales: marine reptiles and pterosaurs, huge dragonflies and primitive crocodiles. When the water receded many millions of years ago, it left behind gentle hills, rugged rocks and a network of rivers – giving rise to the region we call the Swabian Alps today. 

Despite visible human intervention, the Swabian Alps retain their fairy-tale character to this day. Waterfalls plunge over rocky cliff edges, while countless caves are just waiting to be explored. Beech and oak forests extend across lower altitudes, while the upper elevations feature juniper heath. Thanks to the variety of their biotopes, the Swabian Alps are a refuge for rare species: the southern white admiral – a butterfly – can be found on the slopes of the Blue Valley, chamois climb the rocky terrain of the Danube Valley, herons and storks settle in the wetlands, while the caves are the realm of the bats.

The best view of the region can be enjoyed from Schönberg Tower, which stands 26.4 metres tall. Sitting atop the Albtrauf escarpment, it is seen as the gateway to the Swabian Alps. It can only be reached on foot, so you really have to earn the view: it’s 108 steps to the top. The idiosyncratic dual-tower construction made of reinforced concrete was designed by Stuttgart architect Theodor Fischer, who named his work “triumphal arch of the beautiful”. Locals have a somewhat less lofty name for it, affectionately dubbing it “Onderhos” – a dialect word meaning “underpants” – because the white building resembles a pair of underpants that has become frozen on the line in the bitter winter wind. The viewpoint is open all year round, and if the flag is flying you can be sure that the tower’s kiosk will also be open. The “Onderhos” celebrated its 120th anniversary in 2025!

To really immerse yourself in the landscape, the best option is to embark on one of the many hiking trails, such as the Albschäferweg (Alpine Shepherd Way). 158 kilometres long, it follows the paths used by shepherds still engaged in the traditional practice of transhumance. The sheep play a vital role in preserving the landscape, keeping the heath open and preventing shrub and tree encroachment.  The trail passes through the region’s characteristic juniper heath and limestone grasslands, crosses the Steinheim meteorite crater and takes you past caves in which, 40,000 years ago, Ice Age hunters carved figures out of mammoth ivory. It’s worth keeping your eyes open while you walk: if you look closely, you may even spot traces of the primeval sea in the limestone, clay and marl.

February 2026