I did not know what to expect on Chef Jane’s guided food tour. All I knew was that we would be a small group. To me, ‘small group’ implied ‘intimate’, which means talking to people is unavoidable. This made me nervous. We assembled at Greatmore Studios in Woodstock, and I was reassured to see Chef Jane’s familiar face, which I often see at Bertha House, the activist community space where the organisation I work for, Food Agency Cape Town, is based.
Jane escorted us into an ecosystem of stores run by different African immigrant communities, which to me as a local had until this moment blended into the other stores I occasioned for food. Jane reminded me that food is also a way for those who are far from home to maintain a connection with home. The ingredients we were introduced to took me on travels in my mind, tracing journeys that stretched from Cape Town’s food system beyond many borders. There was fish, dry almost to the bone, rich in its smell and preserved by salt. This fish can withstand the long distances it travels before it arrives inside the stores lining the streets of Cape Town, there to be bought and carried into the homes of those who long for a taste of home. This food is international, arriving in big trucks coming from Rwanda, Democratic Republic of Congo, Malawi and other countries in Africa; it travels in hundreds of bags, which first stop in Johannesburg before being distributed to the rest of the country.
Jane vividly described how all this food gets to us, emphasising that it is a thriving system that sees farms in Malawi, Zimbabwe, Nigeria, among others, growing and selling food to a growing market of migrants who are living, working, and making new homes in Cape Town. Demand for this supply of food is managed through WhatsApp groups: the arrival of goods is announced to communities who find each other socially, through church, and in other spaces. The arrival of dried fish, yams, and plantains is said to bring about a rush of excited customers who know they must respond quickly, before everything is gone.
Store owners received us warmly, many inviting us to taste unfamiliar items and to buy food to take home. Jane slowly collected the ingredients she would need to cook lunch; and guess who would be doing the cooking? Us, of course. From the food tour we moved to Jane's home, where everyone was tasked with preparing and making a part of the lunch that would be served. This is where, in my own self-serving attempts to find the easiest task, I ended up taking on probably the least-good-idea. I found myself with a grater and a pile of garlic cloves, which I had to grate into a mound of fine garlic to be used in some of the dishes. Of course, I believe in the power of garlic on my meals – just not its smell lasting for days on my fingers.
As we prepared the ingredients, our conversations moved to reflections about the plate, and the different journeys the food had gone on before it got there. It was as if, through the lens of the food we had just prepared, a light had been shone into a dark room to which our eyes had become completely adapted, and it was a glorious relief to see the scale of the African food system that has developed in a largely westernised Cape Town. When I reflect on this particular session, I remember the ways in which food and expressions of identity are intertwined. People’s stories are told through the food they eat, and for anyone who wants to be reminded of home, when they are far away, the easiest way to be ransported back is by enjoying the familiar tastes of home. Where does coconut milk, for example, take them in their memories? These food practices are a way of making home, just as they are a way of restoring belonging inside the home. A way of restoring power, through the plate.I did not know what to expect on Chef Jane’s guided food tour. All I knew, was that we would be a small group. To me, ‘small group’ implied ‘intimate’, which means talking to people is unavoidable. This made me nervous. We assembled at Greatmore Studios in Woodstock, and I was reassured to see Chef Jane’s familiar face, which I often see at Bertha House, the activist community space where the organisation I work for, Food Agency Cape Town, is based.
Jane escorted us into an ecosystem of stores run by different African immigrant communities, which to me as a local, had until this moment blended into the other stores I occasioned for food. Jane reminded me that food is also a way for those who are far from home to maintain a connection with home. The ingredients we were introduced to took me on travels in my mind, tracing journeys that stretched from Cape Town’s food system beyond many borders. There was fish, dry almost to the bone, rich in its smell and preserved by salt. This fish can withstand the long distances it travels before it arrives inside the stores lining the streets of Cape Town, there to be bought and carried into the homes of those who long for a taste of home. This food is international, arriving in big trucks coming from Rwanda, Democratic Republic of Congo, Malawi and other countries in Africa; it travels in hundreds of bags, which first stop in Johannesburg before being distributed to the rest of the country.
Jane vividly described how all this food gets to us, emphasizing that it is a thriving system that sees farms in Malawi, Zimbabwe, Nigeria, among others, growing and selling food to a growing market of migrants who are living, working, and making new homes in Cape Town. Demand for this supply of food is managed through WhatsApp groups: the arrival of goods is announced to communities who find each other socially, through church, and in other spaces. The arrival of dried fish, yams, and plantains is said to bring about a rush of excited customers who know they must respond quickly, before everything is gone.
Store owners received us warmly, many inviting us to taste unfamiliar items and to buy food to take home. Jane slowly collected the ingredients she would need to cook lunch; and guess who would be doing the cooking? Us, of course. From the food tour we moved to Jane's home, where everyone was tasked with preparing and making a part of the lunch that would be served. This is where, in my own self-serving attempts to find the easiest task, I ended up taking on probably the least-good-idea. I found myself with a grater and a pile of garlic cloves, which I had to grate into a mound of fine garlic to be used in some of the dishes. Of course, I believe in the power of garlic on my meals – just not its smell lasting for days on my fingers.
As we prepared the ingredients, our conversations moved to reflections about the plate, and the different journeys the food had gone on before it got there. It was as if, through the lens of the food we had just prepared, a light had been shone into a dark room to which our eyes had become completely adapted, and it was a glorious relief to see the scale of the African food system that has developed in a largely westernised Cape Town.
When I reflect on this particular session, I remember the ways in which food and expressions of identity are intertwined. People’s stories are told through the food they eat, and for anyone who wants to be reminded of home, when they are far away, the easiest way to be transported back is by enjoying the familiar tastes of home. Where does coconut milk, for example, take them in their memories? These food practices are a way of making home, just as they are a way of restoring belonging inside the home. A way of restoring power, through the plate.